Sunday is the one night the whole animal comes out. From 4 to 9 pm the hearth turns to a slow roast: ember-rubbed chicken, coal-roasted carrots, crispy potatoes, charred greens, and roasted-garlic jus by the jug.

It started as a staff meal years ago — the cooks' end-of-week feast — and guests kept asking for a plate. Now it's the week's loudest, happiest service, and the dining room books out first.

Can't make it in? The Sunday roast box for two ships chilled with reheating cards, so the feast travels. Either way, come hungry.